How To

Have you ever wondered how hair systems work? How do they stay on the heads of the people that wear them? How do you clean it? How does it work? This page helps you to find the answers to these questions and what you need to shine during your time wearing hair.

How to attach your system…

The ways of attaching differs with the system you have. Some systems can be bonded with adhesive, some with tape and some you clip on.

Let’s start with the Skin systems and the ones with a PU-perimeter….

When you have a skin system or a PU perimeter on your lace system, you would preferrably attach with adhesive. Adhesive will be added to the scalp or the hair on the head (when not shaved).

First you clean the system and the scalp thouroughly with a scrub, scalp cleaner or a exfoliating cleansing mitt to clean the head of the natural oils than can breakdown the adhesive.

Put the adhesive on the scalp, on the area where the skin or PU is placed. Don’t go too low, under the hairline as you need to clean up afterwards. You can glue the full area. Don’t put adhesive where the lace is comming if you have a combined system. Adhesive can seep through the lace and leaves you with a mess.

Let the adhesive dry so it doesn’t shine anymore. Put a second layer, depending on the wear time you are trying to achieve. There are different adhesives that have a working time from a few days to multiple weeks.

Lace systems and Lace Front systems…

Best way of attaching a lace system is with tape. Systems with a skin rear and a lace front can be attached with just tape or tape and adhesive. But don’t put the adhesive under the lace as it will seep through and you will have the adhesive in the hair. Place the tape around the perimeter of the system. Most of the time the tape is stretchy and can be bend into the right shape. Different shapes are available bepending on the contours you prefer. The rolls are always straight and come in 1″ 3/4″ or 1/2″. There is a assortment of contours called A/B/CC/D/E. In addition, there are short strips; straight or curved (Tabs) and extra small tapes.

No Shine tape from Walker has a non-shiny side that goes to the base. that is the part where there is no text on the strip.
Supertape by True Tape has a non-shiny side and that is the part with the text so that goes to the base of the system.
You can remove the shine of a tape that comes through your base by touching it with and fingertip. The natural oils from your fingers will make it less shiny.

Attaching with clips…

When you dont want to mess around with adhesives or tapes and you have some hair to attach to, you can use clips to attach the lace system. The system has to have an edge where the clips can be sowed on, This can be lace, mono or PU (skin of at least 0.04mm thick).

Sowing on the clips is very easy.

Use clips and thread that match the color of the system.
Stitch either 2 or 3 points of the clip on each side to the system. 2 sides give a little bit of flexibility.
Put the silicone side to the system and have the teeth of the clip point inwards.
Use 2 or 3 on the sides and 2 or 3 on the back. There where the clip can still grasp the hair.

Once you have desided how to attach the system, you determine the location at the front of your head where the system should come. Frown and feel with your finger where the hairline starts, right above your nose. Put a mark with either an eye-pencil, a marker or make an impression with a comb on the spot you just choose. Take the system and place it from front to back on your head.

Press down firmly to make the tape or adhesive fix. It will take some time to have the adhesive cure to the skin.

When you need to correct the placement, spray some Lace Release (LuxHair), Adjust a Bond (ProTouch), Just Right (WalkerTapeCompany) or simple 99% Alcohol on the base of the system or on the lace system. The adhesive will soften as long as the alcohol isn’t evaporated and it gives you time to move the system a little.

With clips, you simply click the clips open, place the system (determine the location) and close the clips.

Wearing a full cap

When wearing a full cap that is so fitting that you actually don’t want to tape or glue to the scalp, or you want to put it over your own hair, you might just want a gripperband. A gripperband is a silicone band that has little knobs and is rough so it doesn’t slide off the skin/forehead. You can even cut a piece of a gripperband and sow it to a piece of the system for extra grip when you need it.

How to apply tape…

Tape comes on rolls, strips and mini strips. You can use any kind of tape, your sking will accept. There is hypoallergene tape, shiny tape, tape for just lace, tape for all systems. Often it’s what works best once you tried it out the one you want.

To start always clean and dry your system ans scalp thoughourly. Then you choose a tape that goes well with you the base of your system, how long you want to wear it and what the conditions are from your skin.

Put the tape around the perimeter of the system and if you want throught the middle of the system for extra hold.

Determine the location of the front of the system, frown and feel with your finger where the hairline starts, right above your nose. Put a mark with either an eye-pencil, a marker or make an impression with a comb on the spot you just choose. Take the system and place it from front to back on your head.

Press down firmly to make the tape fix. It will take some time to have the adhesive in the tape cure to the skin.

How to use adhesive…

Adhesive is applied on a clean scalp and not on the system. You add 1 or 2, maybe even 3 coats of adhesive on the scalp. 1 layer at the time and let it dry untill it doesn’t shine anymore. The adhesive should not be added any lover than the area the system will cover. Use an eye pecil to mark out the space to make it easy.

How to remove your system…

When removing the system it’s important to be carefull and not to tear the base as the adhesives and tapes can be very strong. Have you seen the clips where they put a pointy comb under the front of the system? Don’t so that!

What should you do? Take a lace release or adhesive remover and spray it around the perimeter of the system so it can soak a little. Let the solvent or remover do it’s work vefore you start removing. You will notice the edge of the system will come loose and you take a piece of cloth or make up pad with the lace release of remover and rub it arrond the edge. Start at the back. Rub at the edge while liftin the system from back to front. The system will come loose while the front is having minimal chance of tearing and you can cleanse the system for re-use.

How to cleanse the base (from adhesive and styling products)…

Once removed the system can be cleaned. You have to be gentle and the process isn’t quick. Have a 2nd system on hand so you can wear that while you thouroughly clean the system. Preent stress and streching of teh system to prevent hairloss. You will need a sink, base cleaner, soaking basin, cleansing brush, hydrating shampoo, deep cleaning shampoo, tyro head, poly tip brush and a towel.

Soak the system in a boaking basin with base cleaner. Base down, hair up, add enough base cleaner, the system should be emerged. Soak it for 8-24h. Rinse the system, base up under cold running water. The adhesive will come of easily and you can use a soft brust to help remove the adhesive. Rinse thouroughly.

Shampoo the hairs twice with a deep cleaner shampoo, don’t rub the system, spread the shampoo evenly with your hands. Rinse thouroughly.

Shampoo with a hydrating shampoo, don’t rub the system, spread the shampoo evenly with your hands. Rinse thouroughly.

Dry the system by putting it on a towel and fold the towel on the hair. Press gently. Put the system on a styro head and comb or brush it in the style you want to wear it. Let it dry for 24h before attaching.

Not wearing it for some time, store the dry system in a ziplock bag and out of the light to keep the colors up and the system fresh.

How to clean the scalp…

Assuming you have a (nearly) bold scalp you should clean the scalp thouroughly before applying. By doing this you enhance the hold of the tape or adhesive. You prevent the system from getting smelly or sweaty. You may prevent the sking from getting irritated or itchy by the adhesive or tape as a reaction with the “old remains” on the skin. A clean skin is a best start in wearing hair. Shave the area with the final few hairs that will be covered with the system and you can use a normal razer and shaving foam.

You can scrub the scalp with an exfoliating scrub. It will remove the dead skin cells and that will prevent odor.
You can use an exfoliating mitt that you can rub on the scalp, this also removes dead skin cells.
Detox the skin with a detox shampoo which is a non-invasive scalp mask that gently draws out toxins and oils from the scalp, leaving skin soft, healthy and rejuvenated.

How to repair a torn system…

When a system has a tear or hole you can fix that in a few different ways. Depending on the type of system and the location of the damage.

How to start…

Dampen the hair and comb it through. Place the system inside out on a head and pin it to prevent moving. Clean the area with isoproyl alcohol and spray it with knotsealer, let that dry 3-4 minutes. Pin the edges of the damage together so they touch and you can apply the fix.

Lace/Mono systems with needle and thread…

Lace and mono systems have a very thin structure where the hairs are knotted into the system. The hair go through the system and you can use the material to sow the system back to gether. Use a very fine needle and a fine thread in the same color of the base. Sew using a simple overcast stitch. Make sure to keep your stitches small and close to the tear so that your comb or brush won’t get caught on the thread later. Once you’re happy with your sewing and repair, you should double knot the thread and be sure to cut off the excess thread.

Lace/Mono systems with tape…

Use a high tack, extended-wear tape to cover the torn area. Make sure to press down firmly with your fingers to ensure the tape has been well attached to the lace, then you can carefully trim the surplus tape.

Once you have the tape firmly in place, you should cover it with transpore tape of the same size to help strengthen the repaired area in your hair system and prevent it from sticking to your scalp.

Poly/PU/Skin systems…

While poly hair systems and those with skin bases don’t get damaged as easily as those made from lace, it’s still important to know how to do an at-home poly hair system repair if you do run into a tear.

Turn the hair system inside out so that the underside of the base is face up and you can clearly see the damaged area that requires repair. Clean the area that’s been torn with acetone or nail polish remover. Firmly pin the edges of the tear together so that the ripped edges are touching. Keep the edges of shorter hair out of the way with transpore tape or T-pins. Apply hair system repair tape to the tear. Press down firmly to ensure the tape is secure and then carefully peel the backing off. Apply a coat of repair liquid or adhesive glue. Let the poly hair system dry and then add another coat of adhesive glue. Repeat this procedure a third time and your poly hair system is all set!

Although poly hair systems tear far less frequently, repairing them is a little more time consuming because each fresh coat of poly repair liquid needs to fully dry before a strengthening layer can be applied. Each time you apply an adhesive layer, always allow three to four hours before applying the second layer.

How to handle a smelly system…

When you wear your system for a longer period of time, the sweat and oil from your skin and the used adhesive or tape will react and an odor may occur. If you want to freshen up your system but not remove it because you are just not in the situation to remove and clean it, you can add a scalp freshner on the system. it will go through the lace and removes the odor of the build up. To prevent the smelly situation in the first place, use a scalp protector before attaching. There is a variety of scalp protectors and what they do mainly is put a layer on the scalp and that creates a few benefits:

the adhesive or tape sticks better
the sweat and the oils from the skin are blocked so they can’t get mixed with the adhesive.
the chemicals of the adhesive and tape get less chance to cause irritaion on the skin
these together cause less odor and a fresher feel while wearing the system.

How to wash and condition a synthetic piece…

A systhetic system needs other products that a Human Hair system. The base can be attached the same way, but the hair have a different structure and they need some extra love to make them shine again. Avoid heat as synthetic hair does like heat.

Clean using a very thin fibre cleaner or synthetic shampoo, you pour the liquid in a basin with water. Dip the system in the liquid for about 10 times.
When the cleaner or shampoo is thicker, you gently run the liquid through the system while combing it with your fingers from top to bottom.

Repeat a few times and rinse with lukewarm water.

After rinsing you can repeat and dry the system by folding it in a towerl to get out the access water. Then treat it with an conditioner for synthetic hair. Spray it to the ends of the hair, not to the base. Comb it through with a wide tooth comb.

Finish the hair when still damp (not wet, not dry yet) with a detangler. Spray it to the ends of the system, not the base/top. Style the hair, adjust the partition the way you like it and let it airdry.

How to wash and condition a human hair piece…

Start with detaching the system and use running cold or lukewarm water when rinsing. Don’t wash it more than once or twice a week. Use a paraben and sulfate free shampoo.

To remove the remains of adhesives and styling products, use a deep cleansing shampoo for human hair systems. Comb the shampoo through the system with your fingers, not with a comb or brush. Run your fingers trough the hair untill all hairs have been shampoo-ed. Rinse the system. Repeat if you feel it needs it.

When your system get dull and dry, use a hydrating, a replenishing or even better a 2-in-1 shampoo after the deep cleansing. Repeat the shampooing by running it through the hairs. leave the shampoo for about 5 minutes. Rinse out thouroughly.

The 2-in-1 shampoo closes the hair scales and won’t absorb the conditioner. It’s already conditioned. But if you haven’t used the 2-in-1 shampoo, Use a hydrating conditioner afterwards. Massage the conditioner gently in the system. Let it set for a few minutes and rinse out under cold water. Comb the system under the running water.

Dry the hair my laying it on a towel and press the water out. Don’t rub or wringe and leave it to dry on a styro head. For long hair systems, use a long neck styro head.

How to detangle your system…

So this is a tricky one, but how did you get the system so tangled up like that in the first place? Anyway, let’s fix it with this super trick. What do you need?

Sink with warm water
Measure cup
Chlorine/bleach (what?)
Ammonia (really!)
Wide tooth comb/open brush
Towels (a few)
Gloves (trust me)
Styro Head (half head, full head, long nek depending on your system)
Timer (egg timer will do)

So what you do; you put 1 Gallon (about 4L) of hot water and 1/4 cup of bleach in the sink (sinkstopper in), and place the system with the base up in the mixture in the sink. Brush or comb the hair from front to back while in the mixture. Not longer that 2 minutes in the bleach mixture and don’t submerge the base.

Rinse, with the base up, all bleach from the system, put it asside and clean the sink from bleach to prevent reaction with the ammonia.

Then you take 1 Gallon (about 4L) of hot water and 1/4 cup of ammonia in the sink (sinkstopper in), and place the system with the base down in the mixture in the sink. Brush or comb the hair from top to bottom while in the mixture. Not longer that 2 minutes in the ammonia mixture.

Rinse thouroughly with the base up and clean the sink. Wash and condition the hair. Put the system on a towel and fold it. Press the excess water out. Put the system on a styro head and model it. Let it dry by air.

Hair system Maintenance…

While it’s fairly simple to do your own hair system maintenance, a good regular care routine will help prevent damage and keep your hair system looking its best for longer. Follow these easy tips for keeping your hair system in tip-top shape.

Condition regularly: We recommend using a leave-in conditioner to protect against dryness and UV damage.
Use products made for hair systems: Because hair systems are not able to get the natural protective moisture from the scalp that growing hair can, it is important that it is properly cleansed and conditioned.
Try to avoid letting your hair system come into contact with chlorinated water. If this is not possible, put a good amount of leave-in conditioner in your hair before swimming in order to provide a protective layer between the water and the hair of your hair system.
Avoid blow-dryers and heated hair-styling tools. Opt instead for drying your hair with towel,or better yet, a cotton tee shirt!